Monday, October 20, 2008

Oat Porridge and Fruit

After an evening meal of rich and greasy foods like the fried Indian pastries I had for takeouts the other night, a wholesome homemade oat porridge with fruit for breakfast feels cleansing and invigorating to the body the next day. If you're still groggy from all the oils and carbohydrates, there's nothing faster or simpler. And with a basket on hand of the plumpest, juiciest apricots I've seen for almost a year, an oat porridge cooked in apple-cranberry juice with diced fresh apricots became irresistible.

By now everyone is familiar with the advice to eat whole grains as part of their daily diet, but many people still don't know how to go about getting them properly. Whole grains are widely marketed these days in all kinds of breads, granolas, cereals and snacks, but unless you're familiar with the actual process used in their productions, you're better off without them. Most commercial whole grain products are baked at too high temperatures — it's quick and efficient for the producers, but these temperatures destroy most of the nutritional content of the foods. Another common problem in modern production processes is the use of rancid grains — the outer layer of the whole grains are especially susceptible to becoming rancid quickly without freezing.

Most importantly, however, the grains used in most commercial processes have not been soaked before being cooked. All grains contain phytic acid in their outer layer, or bran, that when left untreated combine with calcium, magnesium, copper, iron and zinc in the intestinal tract and block their absorption. Soaking grains in warm water or yogurt overnight allows enzymes and lactobacilli to break down the phytic acid so that the mineral benefits of grains are realized. Soaking and fermenting is also crucial for breaking down complex proteins like the gluten found in oats into simpler components that are much more easily digested by the body.

And oats are just about the perfect grain for starting the day with energy, naturally sweet and soothing, and a terrific source of calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, fibre and B vitamins. Samuel Johnson once noted that oats are "a grain used in England to feed horses and in Scotland to feed the populace," which might be why there were so many splendid specimens of English horses and Scots. Oatmeal porridge was a staple breakfast food of older Canadians, and it's so quick and easy to make there's no reason why it shouldn't become a staple for a new generation as well.

On the subject of processed foods, I've never understood the need for "quick" or "instant" oats when ordinary rolled or steel-cut oat flakes cook about as fast as it takes to pour a bowl of corn flakes when the oats have been soaked the night before. Like other marketed whole grain products, instant oats are pre-cooked at nutrient-destroying temperatures before they even get to your cupboard, and contain unnecessary preservatives and artificial sweeteners besides. On the other hand, old-fashioned rolled or steel-cut oats are almost as good as using the whole oat groats, because they've only been lightly processed with light steaming and rolling or cutting.

Almost instant oat porridge

For my porridges I employ a variation of the old muesli technique in which I soak the oats in an equal amount of plain whole-fat yogurt and whey overnight at room temperature, and sometimes with a small piece of cinnamon stick tossed in for flavour. One-third cup of dried oats usually makes a good-sized serving for most people. If you find the idea of leaving yogurt overnight at room temperature unappealing, don't worry — it is perfectly safe since the broken-down lactic acid in yogurt prevents harmful bacterial culturation, and brings out the natural tangy flavour of yogurt as an added bonus. Whole grains should always be eaten with good fatty dairy products to provide the catalyst for mineral absorption in any case, and soaking the oats in yogurt is the easiest way to do this.

The next morning, bring an amount of water and/or fruit juice equal to the amount of oats to a light boil. Stir in the soaked oats, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for just a few minutes until thick, stirring constantly to avoid sticking. Just before taking the oats off the stove, add fresh or frozen berries, fruit or raisins, seeds or nuts, and stir in for thirty seconds. Swirl in a bit of maple syrup, raw honey or molasses if you crave a little extra sweetness.

Take the oats off the stove and let cool for just a few minutes before serving.

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